From Too Many Chefs - www.toomanychefs.com

October 14, 2004
Food Section Digestion


Well the debates are over and I have to say I'm disappointed. Neither candidate sufficiently pandered to the all-important Food Blogger Community. Forget NASCAR dads and security moms, it is in the food blogs of this great nation that the fate of our children will be decided. Where's MY free Navy bean soup like you get in the Congressional cafeteria, Senator Kerry? Where's MY "No Appetite Left Behind Act", President Bush? Huh? Huh?

Hang on, Nader's offering us a peanut...

On to the food sections.

Bill Daley this week in the Chicago Tribune takes on a domestic policy issue - what to do with leftovers in the age of Costco packaging? The answers are creative and come not only from chefs like the great Jacques Pepin, but from readers of the Trib as well. You'll want to run out and buy 10 pounds of salmon today. Wolfgang Puck actually writes "I love tailgating". Now seriously, can you see Wolfgang Puck tailgating? Who does he root for, the Washington Redskin Peanuts? Michael Malone scores a touchdown by reminding us plain citizens that it's oyster time! I called out the Trib a few weeks ago when it had nothing worth reading in the food section, I'll give them a compliment this week as the food section is particularly rich with good articles. Nice job, Tribbers.

In New York at the New York Times, Amanda Hesser outsources our appetites to Sri Lanka, just off the coast of India, and finds king coconuts, multicolored curries,and starches of every kind. R.W. Apple graced Chicago with his presence to visit local Alsatian sensation Jean Joho. R.W.- give me a call next time you're in town - we'll do lunch (um, you DO have an expense account, right?) There's an actual political food story as Marian Burros interviews Teresa Heinz Kerry and refrains from making any ketchup jokes. Eric Asimov meanwhile indulges in some fine farmhouse ales.

Tony Rosenfeld in the Washington Post recommends half-measures to deal with garlic by crushing it lightly. Nonsense, say I. Smack that clove up and deal with the consequences! Ed Bruske is no cold fish - no, he supports hot fish - in four different stews. Ben Giliberti think we shouldn't mind when we get screwed. By which he means when we get fine screw-top wines.

The Los Angeles Times's Corie Brown thinks fine wines will be coming from Paso Robles. I've had wine from Paso Robles and they're right. Emily Green writes that olives are the next great crop from Paso Robles, and Jordan Mackay parses the region's wine-making style. That's a lot of attention to a small region. Must be a swing state.

The San Francisco Chronicle is bringing in a bumper crop of roof produce. The Chronicle's Michael Buaer reviews a restuarant that uses aromatherapy techniques. Smells like... victory.

The Seattle Post-Intelligencer's Hsiao-Ching Chou endorses wild matsutake mushrooms. Ann Lovejoy goes for the red and white state votes with recipes for both red and white lasagnas.

In Boston, the Boston Globe's Lisa Zwirn knows it all comes down to oil, and has tips for shoosing the right one. Sheryl Julian and Julie Riven try to appeal to all constituencies in their potluck discussion with a "meat loaf pate".

From Senator Kerry's home state we go to the President's home state where the Hartford Courant talks up Chowhound.com. You didn't know Bush was born in Connecticut? OK, fine we'll go next to where he grew up, though Kennebukport doesn't have a food section on-line.

The Houston Chronicle and Dai Huynh's hunt for the perfect Oktoberfest Weiner schnitzel. Dai Huynh washes it down with a sip of cognac, which must be tasted according the rules set down by Huynh's interview, Jean Dominique Andreu.

Pableaux Johnson of the New Orleans Times-Picayune covers John T. Edge's fried chicken satori. Alicia ross with Beverley Mills make sure Dixie represents itself with a "frogmore stew". I'd never heard of the stuff.

Turning from domestic to foreign affairs, the London-based Observer published their food monthly for October last week. Among the articles - Jay Rayner writes his impressions of Per Se, the new restaurant in New York from the chef behind the French Laundry, Thomas Keller. This piece like many from the Observer and Guardian reads like something from a mid-70's Rolling Stone - minus the mescaline, of course. Nigel Slater picks the 10 best autumn dishes ever. Slater's a favorite of mine and of Meg in Paris's so I'm not slamming him, but is it really necessary to write "Britain's best food writer" every time the Observer talks about him? He is a great writer. Let his words speak for themselves. Otherwise it smacks of desperation like Donald "Class" Trump.

On the multipaper Irish site Unison.ie, the apparently still meat and potatoes Irish are so surprised by a vegan living 20 years that they write an article about him. Apparently it's meat, potatoes, and bread as the average Irishman or Irishwoman takes in 25% of their salt from bread.

Willie Simpson at the Sydney Morning Herald wraps his head around boiling oysters in stout. Then eating the oysters. Then drinking the stout. Happy Halloween. Summer's coming in the southlands and Brigette Hafner has strawberry tart and Himmels torte recipes for the season.

At New Zealand's multi-paper stuff.co.nz site, Mary Kirk-Anderson is Basqueing in a fishy feeling. Shelly Caldwell meanwhile launches a navel orange assault on cookies.

That's it for this week. Lunch is approaching, so we're now giving Libertarian candidate Michael Badnarik fifteen minutes to get over here with a good egg-salad sandwich before we choose our candidate...

Posted by Barrett in Maryland at October 14, 2004 10:11 AM | TrackBack
Comments

On the multipaper Irish site Unison.ie, the apparently still meat and potatoes Irish are so surprised by a vegan living 20 years that they write an article about him. Apparently it's meat, potatoes, and bread as the average Irishman or Irishwoman takes in 25% of their salt from bread.

Posted by Kevin on October 5, 2005 at 1:15 PM