September 9, 2004
Food Section Digestion - September 9, 2004

The New York Times is all over the place this week. Is it 5765 already? Joan Nathan prepares us for a Rosh Hashana featuring tamarind. I'll still be writing 5764 on my checks for weeks, I'm sure. Frank Bruni examines the variety of cuisine available at the U.S. Open. Dennis Ray Wheaton travels to Oaxaca and samples the complex food of the "land of seven moles" where they don't shy away from chowing down on grasshoppers and maguey worms. Tobey Cecchini has a composed salad revelation in France. "Composed Salad Revelation"? I think that was the working title for Kerouac's Satori in Paris.

The Washington Post is also looking forward to the Jewish new year and Candy Sagon speaks with kosher caterer David Dahan about make-ahead dishes for the holiday. Renee Schettler briefly examines my second favorite kitchen gadget, the mandoline. The Post kicks off an international cooking course with a video from Kim O'Donnel.

In the Chicago Tribune, Robin Mather Jenkins tries to get her (?) head around the new batch of oils becoming popular. Bill Daley swills plonk. I'm not going to explain that sentence, you'll just have to read the article. I don't usually comment on Wolfgang Puck's articles in the Trib, but this week he relates the story of receiving a request for a ham and cheese sandwich for Labor Day telethonner Jerry Lewis. Isn't Jerry Jewish? I hope it was kosher ham.*

The L.A. Times Russ Parsons examines late summer melons, and teaches us the difference between Indorous, Reticulatus, and Cantalupensis melon families. Beth Fortune says that no matter what your ethnic background, there's a meatball in there somewhere.

New Orleans' Times-Picayune Mildred Covert takes action and serves up some down-home southern style... kosher Rosh Hashana food? Yep. Shalom, y'all. Marcelle Bienvenu turns to her friend Ju-Ju to help her make pate choux in anticipation of a visit from her great niece.

In the Houston Chronicle, Dai Huynh is finding home-style desserts like banana pudding, cookies and milk, doughnuts, and apple pies you'd think were more suited for Luby's at the most haute (haute-iest?) restaurants in town.

Olvia Wu at the San Francisco Chronicle rents a Jewish grandmother to help Janice Sellars make Rosh Hashana appropriate foods. The "rent a grandmother" series is a great idea and I hope the Chronicle keeps it going. Any Norwegian grandmas out there for rent?

If there were, I'm sure she'd make apple dishes like the seven Joe Bonwich at the St. Louis Post-Dispatch's site offers (upper right column of link).

Ann Lovejoy in the Seattle Post-Intelligencer would like you to know that you don't HAVE to follow recipes if you don't like, can't get, or can't eat the ingredients. You can substitute.

In Honolulu, the Starbulletin is reporting five-pound mangos. Best of all the flesh is not fibrous, so you won't get that urge to floss right after you have one.

Scotland on Sunday's Jeremy Watson is reporting that leading Scottish chef Nick Nairn is encouraging people to abandon the local megamart in favor (sorry, favour) of better-tasting fare sold by specialty shops. Gina Davidson gives it a go and ends up paying 10% more for much better produce, fish, meat, etc...

Mostly stories of local interest in the Sydney Mornign Herald, but they do have two videos from the last week that are worth a peek. First, watch as chef Brigette Hafner goes shopping at the Victoria Market. Steve Manfredi helps you select the perfect fennel bulb for a fennel and orange salad.

New Zealand's multi-paper site picks up a Reuters story on the Braziliian spirit cachaca. They also publish another Reuters story about a used cookbook store in New York that I will be visiting next time I'm there.

The rest of the English-speaking papers of the world seem to still be taking the month off. How is there not a paper in London with a decent WEEKLY food section? Or is there? Are there any German English-language papers that cook?

* This is of course, a joke. Everyone knows a ham is only kosher if a rabbi kills the pig the right way. No?

Posted by Barrett in Maryland at September 9, 2004 9:24 AM | TrackBack Print-friendly version
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